I was very excited to find this super long swiss enamel chain comprising seventy one fancy links, in two shapes; one almost a figure of eight, the other a quattrefoil.
Both enamelled in colours of black, cream, green, blue, and pink, with negative spaces used to create a gold pattern.
The links meet at a gold split ring that holds a matching perfume bottle, locket and fob.
Even worn twice around the neck the chain is still long!
It is also extremely tactile and runs through the fingers like silk.
Swiss enamel jewellery occupies a significant position in the history of European decorative arts.
Owing to the nation’s longstanding reputation for technical precision and fine craftsmanship, Switzerland emerged as an important centre for enamel production during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Enamelled objects—distinguished by their saturated colours, refined detailing, and often miniature pictorial scenes—became highly sought-after souvenirs among members of the European elite undertaking the Grand Tour in the early 1800s.
The technique of enamelling involves the application of finely ground glass to a metal substrate, typically gold or silver, followed by firing at high temperatures to achieve a vitrified surface. Swiss artisans demonstrated exceptional proficiency in this process, producing works noted for both their aesthetic sophistication and their structural durability. The Jura region, in particular, developed a reputation for its specialised workshops, whose craftsmen excelled in the production of enamelled watches, brooches, pendants and chains.
Within this context, Swiss enamel jewellery functions as an exemplar of the intersection between technical innovation, regional craftsmanship, and the broader cultural currents of European travel and collecting practices in the early nineteenth century.
Weighs - 66.3g
18 carat gold and enamel
Length - just under 49" (124cm)
Length of urn - 50mm
Locket - 19mm x 15mm
Fob - 26mm long
Split ring - 16mm diameter
link - 13mm x 10mm
small link - 8mm x 12mm
French or Swiss circa 1830
Condition - immaculate